Thula Sindi is one of my favourite people and designers in South Africa. He has such a clear point of view for his collections, knows how to maintain his head whilst all about him are following trends, and is well aware of his customer. She is a woman of substance. A woman who loves to be glamorous and dress up. But a woman with a social conscious. I like his woman a lot. I also like his designer bestie, Taibo Bacar. Taibo, hailing from Mozambique, produced the absolute best collection of last year. And this year the two decided to collaborate and show together at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Africa.

I think that this was a mistake. Don't hate me, but I don't think it made either of them better. Either it was a collaboration too far. Or not enough. I can't decide. But either way, I think that they must either completely pool their considerable design talents (like KLuK CGDT) or remain best of friends. But I do not think that this sorta collaboration was a great success.

Let me say this. Thula's collection had sensational high points. I absolutely loved the military vibes. This was cool and sexy and done in his specific handwriting. Great. I also loved the use of snake print. That long shirt dress over leatherette trousers was one of my favourite looks of the whole fashion week. Very, very awesome.

This was a fabulous collection. It was coherent, dramatic, beautifully and cleverly crafted. He did a sterling job. Sure there was some stuff that I was uncomfortable with — like I needed his signature twist dress in snake print, and I didn't know what was with the two looks with boob-bandages. But the big problem was that it didn't open strong. Six looks in, and the show only then kicked in. Sadly by the time we were six looks into Thula's collection the damage had already been done.

You see, Taibo showed first. I had very high expectations after last year. And the year before that. This collection was also of an excellent quality. Well constructed and executed. Sometimes it was even a little bit fun. But aside from that I was very perplexed. In three major areas.

First of all it took a long time, and much consultation of Twitter to establish that this was in fact Taibo's collection. Because it really looked exactly like elements of the last three of Thula's collections. What? None of us could understand what Thula's handwriting was doing all over Taibo's show. I mean it looked as if it was cut from the same pattern blocks, made by the same people, finished in the same way. It was definitely in the silhouette and lace insets.

Secondly I was very confused by who the customer was supposed to be. It was pretty much all formal wear. After the sophisticated, urban, fun collections of the last two years, why were we now dressing ladies who lunch? Why was Taibo — cool, young and swaggy — now dressing Thula's ladies?

And finally, I was really, really bothered by the fact that 95% of this collection was backless or frontless and could not be worn with a bra. And since 95% of women in Africa need to wear a bra, I am utterly stymied as to who this collection was aimed at. Make no mistake, it was pretty and lovely and beautifully done. It just wasn't for anyone. Well no one that I know anyway. Maybe I was getting caught up in the commercial imperatives of our market. Maybe I should have just sat back and enjoyed it for it's prettiness. But I think that Taibo is so prodigiously talented and so capable that he could do so much better. It wasn't a bad collection at all, just really confusing. And by the time we were then six looks into Thula's collection, it was hard to pick ourselves up and get excited all over again. Sorry boys, but I think that this all needed a rethink. Two amazing talents. Just a little bit short changed.
All photos courtesy of SDR Photo