Last night we all cheered as Nicholas Coutts, third year student at Cape Town's Design Academy of Fashion, was crowned ELLE Magazine's Rising Star 2013. This is an award presented to a young designer who shows the most promise, and it is co-sponsored by Mr Price. Nicholas will spend the next year, post graduation, doing two-week work experience stints at both Mr Price and ELLE Magazine, and will be producing two collections — one for Mr Price and one for the runway show in a year when the next Rising Star is awarded.
We cheered because this was a very well-deserved award. I met Nicholas four years ago. He had just left school and knew that he wanted to be a designer. But he was also precociously mature enough to know that experience in all sorts of areas of the fashion industry would stand him in good stead. I have interacted with him over the years whilst he was working at a fashion retail store, whilst interning with designer Stiaan Louw, whilst he was working backstage at fashion week on the Adriaan Kuiters shows, and whilst he was a stylist assistant with Crystal Birch. Everyone only has good things to say about him. And he has always interacted with me with impeccable manners, an enthusiastic attitude and a certain capability that is rare in the young people that enter this industry.
I always say that I will take attitude over aptitude any day, but it is clear that Nicholas has both. In spades. And this is one of the many reasons that he was awarded this prize. Hard working, open to learning, committed and consistent were many of the explanations I was given by the judges. Also talented, of course. And the fact that he has a vision for a future in this industry that includes investing in others' learning and development.
His plan to set up a cottage industry for crafts like weaving and knitting, aimed at teaching disadvantaged women these skills, is extremely encouraging. Organic craft is Nicholas' point of difference, one that he is going to spin into a business as well as the source of much of his fabrication. "You can weave anything," he enthusiastically told me. "Tear up an old t-shirt and recycle it into a cool new garment. In fact maybe I'll do that to this collection and recycle it into another one altogether!" I hastily told him not to. But to rather frame it and remember forever how incredible it feels to be recognised in this industry that he has been so committed to for so long already.
This winning collection has been long time in the planning. This is a theme that comes up a lot with Nicholas. He seems imbued with patience and commitment to the long term. He started conceptualising this collection last year. He knew that he wanted to present something with simple silhouettes that are easy and what women want to wear, with interest contributed by highly textured fabrications. He also knew that he wanted to showcase the complexity and skills inherent in traditional, organic craft techniques like weaving and knitting so that people could appreciate this anew.
Working in sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics like bamboo, cottons and wools, Nicholas is dressing a strong woman, one with passion, a fashion sensibility and one that "is a bit grungy." "A hipster, you mean," I suggest to Nicholas, expecting a furious denial as a response. "Yes, I guess so," he said. If by hipster you mean trend-setting, ahead of the curve, intelligent, loving craft and artisanal design — women who really appreciate what they are wearing, without looking like they are trying too hard, of course. Which I do. Exactly.
Nicholas describes his work as a celebration. He also liked that I called it 'deliciously wintery'. "Yes, I love designing winter collections. But I think that next year I will try to do a summer range. Use bright colours and continue this celebration." Well, I couldn't think of anything I would like more. And we will cheer then too, I am sure. Looking forward to it already.
